Why Rock of the Aged just doesn’t Roll

Isn’t life strange? You wait forever for your favourite bands and singers to visit South Africa – and they do. Only they wait 50 years before getting around to it and when they finally get here they’re utterly overshadowed by somebody called Lady Gaga, who (you are told) clads herself in meat and whose only redeeming feature seems to be that she is not Justin Bieber.


Zonnebloem Shiraz 2010

  Aged for two years, intense with fruity-nutty flavours and redolent of true grit – and that’s just the piece of Parmigiano-Reggiano that the winemaker sent along with this bottle of fruit-packed, spicy shiraz. It’s as plummy as a BBC cricket commentator after three gin and tonics. Like many of the best shirazes, great with […]


Two Oceans Pinot Grigio 2012

Now the ubiquitous Two Oceans have brought out another menu pleaser as an alternative to their crowd-pleasing sauvignon blanc, and one that’s also kind to the pocket (around R30 a bottle).


Place in the Sun Shiraz 2011

Bit of a powerhouse shiraz, packing 14% alcohol and deep with mulberry notes on the palate spiced with the expected pepper. Testosterone-charged body and oakiness suggest keeping for another day.


A vampire’s bloodlust for sous vide eggs

Other than Alex, who was elegantly turned out in pink and blue and yellow and oh, I could go on and on, it was easy to tell which ones were the wine judges. They all had teeth stained with the red-black detritis of a thousand wines. It was like being at the closing night dinner of a vampire convention. You flinched if one of them came near.


Winter warmers at Haiku

Halfway through the special winter menu at Haiku, that sizzling hot central Cape Town venue where they serve Asian ‘tapas’ from five mini kitchens, each with specialist chefs, a Chinese master of his craft called Xie Shucong steps out. He has in his hands a large clump of pastry. It has a sheen that you could use to check your hair or adjust your tie, and after pouring a little oil onto a table surface that he has just cleaned, he sets about kneading and stretching the dough, occasionally flicking alkaline water or oil onto it, alternating with flour. It looks like a hell of a workout.


Za’atar’s the way to go

In the mountains where Syria meets Lebanon, where a tyrant annihilates his own people while his wife shops for Prada and G&B online and everybody knows the sound and smell of war, there grows wild thyme called za’atar.


Reflections on an English Christmas

It’s not only that it starts some time in August and slowly builds up a head of steam until it all but mows you down with its cargo of baubles and tinsel and carols and turkey with all the trimmings, all marinating in mulled wine and eggnog. It’s more than that. It takes over theBritish Isles as surely as if it had been conquered by a white-bearded Laplandish dictator in a red and white suit with an army of wild-eyed elves.


Back to tradition and lamb – and no Food Police allowed

There’s this thing that has happened, this rule that has somehow been applied to our cooking and eating lives. Perhaps it was decreed by the Food Police or, more likely, the bejangled Jezebels of Posh Galore, who reign over our culinary lives, chivvying us to eat the thing on the cover of that month’s issue and chiding us when we err and eat spaghetti Bolognese or prawns Marie Rose.


The Roasting of the Killer Tomatoes

The tomato has been said to be just one chromosome removed from the human being. (I know – I also know some people like that.) This must be very worrying for tomatoes. Looking at the human world around them, they must marvel that they are almost capable (but for a solitary chromosome) of the kind of evils their human cousins are able to indulge in.

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