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Steak your claim to a mushroom

I wouldn’t steak my career on this, but a steak is a slab of beef, nothing more, nothing less. But suddenly you can have steak almost anything. Big slab of lamb? Lamb steak. Great hunk of mushroom? It’s a steak.


Peasantly hearty ways with oxtail

How odd that three of the world’s greatest chefs should share a name with a preparation for thickening a sauce. A very basic preparation, which is kind of fitting, for any great chef has to know the basics in order to build both a dish and a career.


Sunday in the field of dreams

It was one of those moments when you wake up and realise where you really are. On a soccer field, yes. But no crowd, no glaring stadium lights. Just a modest small-town soccer field on the edge of town, and it’s Sunday morning coming down on a boy’s wild imagination.


A method for cooking pasta you cannot refuse

If your pasta is less than perfectly al dente, scowling, toothless crones swathed in black cross themselves when you come near, then scurry away down dark alleyways burbling in Latin.